When I was growing up, supper always centered around meat—Sunday roast, skirt steak pounded into tender submission and suffocated in gravy, meatloaf, pork chops fried crispy in Crisco, breaded chicken also Crisco-fried. My fingers were always greasy.             When I moved away for college, I gave up meat—except for Thanksgiving turkey—and subsisted on stir-fried veggies…